India: Delhi to Jaisalmer
Intro to Region
The desert state of Rajasthan is the India of sandstone fortresses, architecturally intricate havalis, turbaned and moustachioed men and beautiful brightly dressed tribal women. For extremes of colour against a sparse, desert landscape and as in introduction to the Indian Sub Continent Rajasthan is hard to beat. Consider blowing the budget and spending at least one night in a converted palace.
Intro to motorcycling in region
Riding in India is a nerve jangling, death defying experience and not for the faint hearted. Size really does matter on Indian roads so be prepared to pull onto the dirt to let oncoming trucks go past, or to avoid sleeping cows. The main roads can be bone shaking, but despite the mayhem riding in India is great fun and an emotional roller coaster. Tears of frustration can turn to laughter in minutes as there is always something to make you smile. The people you meet and the things you see ensure there will never be a dull days ride. Traffic, livestock and humanity compete for space in the cities but once out on the open road rural India is magical. If you are picking up a bike in India it has to be the Enfield Bullet, a classic motorcycle designed in the 1950’s and still produced in Madras. The brakes are poor and the suspension basic, but spares and mechanics are widespread and the pace, sound and feel is perfectly in tune with the surroundings. The Bullet is temperamental, indestructible and in her element on the Indian roads.
ROUTE
Allow two weeks for this journey as there is much to see and a ride in India is so much more enjoyable if you are not in a rush, as the fun of riding in India is the journey itself.As with any journey in India try to leave early when the air is cool and the country is slowly awakening, so ride out of Delhi at first light before the traffic mayhem begins.. The 260 km (162 ml) run south west to Jaipur is along a fairly fast, busy road littered with potholes so you will need to have your wits about you. Lorries and buses career past belching diesel fumes in their wake, and your sooty face will amuse hotel owners throughout your journey. Spend your first few nights in the pink city of Jaipur, visiting the myriad palaces, temples and bazaars in and around the city. It is just under 150 km (93 ml) west to Pushkar, but average speeds are low on India’s rural roads. Throughout your journey there will always be a Chai stand by the side of the road offering sweet tea and respite from the heat and dust. Another favourite is the Omelette stands, great for a mid morning snack if you got on the road at dawn, but watch out for the chillies!
Try to visit Pushkar in November when it hosts the annual Camel Fair. Rajasthani villagers travel in droves to the town, bringing camels and livestock to sell and race. Women leave their homes dressed in their finest clothes to buy bangles and silks, and visit the temples. It is an amazing experience and you will quickly get caught up in the excitement. From Pushkar it is a dusty 200 km (124 ml) ride south west to Jodhpur on the fringe of the Great Thar Desert, and you will probably be sharing the road with camel and buffalo carts. Jodhpur is dominated by the mighty Meherangargh Fort. Get up onto the ramparts for far reaching views over the blue and white houses of the city and to the desert beyond. From Jodphur head 300 km (186 ml) west to Jaisalmer in India’s remote western corner. It is a long, hot dusty ride but the final approach to Jaisalmer is a spectacular sight as the honey sandstone ramparts of Jaisalmer fort rise out of the desert plains. Loose yourself in the narrow streets, join a camel trek and take a ride out to the sand dunes at Sam on the edge of the Thar Desert. India is a riding experience like no other; requiring concentration, patience and above all a sense of humour. Hang onto this and you will have the ride of your life.
The Tool Box
Bike: It is possible to take your own bike into India. Bike hire or buy back schemes are available in Delhi. There are operators offering bike inclusive tours.
Weather Watch: November to February is the best time to visit. Avoid summers baking temperatures.
Extending the ride: From Delhi ride north to Ladakh.
The India story was extracted from Great Motorcycle Journeys of The World by Colette Coleman.
For more information on the book visit www.colettecoleman.com/press.html
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